Fab Review: Cellar Door Provisions

As a pastry chef, working in the field for almost 13 years, there are only a select few bakeries around the city that completely win me over. Cellar Door Provisions is all that and more.

Cellar Door Provisions is nestled in the hip Logan Square neighborhood. Owners Tony Bezsylko and Ethan Pikas, along with Alex Truong and Justin Behlke, met through the Dill Pickle Co-op; the four friends worked together and ran underground supper clubs prior to opening Cellar Door Provisions.

I first heard about the bakery through my fellow foodie friend, Elaine, who couldn’t stop raving about it. She said they had the best breakfast pastries in the city. My curiosity got the best of me so I had to try it! It ended up being one of the best foodie decisions I’ve made in a long time.

{Ambiance}
Don’t let the simple sign on the window fool you. It’s not a typical bakery.

As soon as you walk in, your eyes are drawn to the long communal tables and crisp white walls that surround it. There’s a small glass display where they showcase their daily pastries.

Their ever-changing breakfast and lunch menu is handwritten daily on a giant sheet of butcher’s paper near the counter.

Behind the counter, you can see all the bakers and chefs hard at work while maintaining a level of calmness.

There’s a sense of camaraderie in the air. You can see everyone working together as a team, towards the same goal. The spirit of collaboration also extends to the ingredients used. They are all sourced from local farmers with whom they have established great relationships. With only 20 seats, this place is always bright and bustling.

They open at 8 a.m. on Wednesdays through Sundays, but don’t be surprised if the pastries and bread run out as early as noon. They only produce a certain amount for that day and things sell out pretty fast.

{Food}
The pastries alone are something to be applauded. One thing that sets them apart from the rest is that they understand the importance of using salt in the baking product. When you put in the right amount, the difference in flavor is just mind-blowing. I have never seen such beautiful layers on the croissants and danishes. They are buttery, flaky and absolutely to die for.

They use the same croissant dough and make different variations such as kouign-amann (pronounced QUEEN-ah-mann) but with granulated sugar folded into it and the chocolate babka with chocolate and butter braided into it as well as other combinations.

They also have an incredible Canelé with a crunchy, caramelized exterior and custardy center.

Let’s not forget about the glorious bread that looks like it jumped right out of the pages of a food magazine. The whole wheat country boules are naturally leavened, fermented, and made fresh daily.  Once you take a bite out of the thick, crackly crust and into the soft, airy and slightly tangy interior, you will be forever hooked. They take the artisanal bread game in Chicago up a notch. If you want a little taste of this bread without purchasing a whole loaf, try ordering the Staff Meal. Though it looks deceivingly simple, every single component of the dish is perfectly executed. From the soft boiled farm egg to the fresh butter topped with coarse sea salt, there is no details left untouched.

They also make a killer deep dish quiche. Just look at the ultra smooth, creamy custard that is encased in a golden brown and flaky crust.

The flavor offered depends on what is available and in season. I honestly never had a bad meal here. You can never go wrong when the food is treated with so much love and respect.

{Experience}
This slow food mecca is setting a new standard in baking by taking great ingredients perfecting them with simple techniques. Everything down to the sourdoughs, vinegars, butters, and kefirs are made in-house. I love the sense of community. It clearly shows with their attentive and efficient service. As a person who has been working in this industry for quite some time, I have a deep respect for a bakery that is gutsy enough to do things the right but often harder way. Cellar Door Provisions is a diamond in the rough especially in the land of where everything bigger is better. Quality over quantity does matter when it comes to food.

{Location}
Cellar Door Provisions
Logan Square || 3025 West Diversey Ave, Chicago, IL || P: (773) 697-8337

{Price Range}
$$ ($11-$35)

{Fab Rating: 4.5 fabs}

Come see for yourself. Find out why this place holds a special meaning in my heart and belly, of course!

Savor Every Moment,
Sherrie

Note: This meal was not complimentary. The views and opinions expressed herein are those of the writer.