Fab Review: Brunch at The Publican

The Publican, a member of Paul Kahan’s culinary empire, is a pork- and seafood-focused restaurant in the center of the Fulton Market meatpacking district. The Publican stays true to the West Loop style of reinventing traditional American foods with a modern twist and a focus on farm-to-table sustainability.

My close friend from high school came to visit me in Chicago last weekend, and I wanted to show off the amazing New American dining scene here. I decided to take him to brunch at The Publican, which I’ve heard incredible things about. I was actually here for dinner two years ago, which was good, but I have to say the brunch blew that meal out of the water.

{Ambiance}
It’s no wonder The Publican won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant Design because the space is simply stunning. The dining room is spacious with high ceilings and is divided into several sections: standing tables for those waiting for a seat, long communal tables in the center, and private booths lining the wall for those who prefer to enjoy their meal more intimately.

There’s also a small patio area for warmer weather seating. The circular lights that hang from the ceiling give the place a lovely warm glow, and the paintings of absurdly plump pigs that decorate the walls add a uniquely homely and rustic aura. By the time we arrived at 10:30 a.m., the restaurant was already fairly crowded and filled with vibrant chatter.

FAB TIP: Get a reservation for brunch because space fills up fast.

{Food}
We had a reservation and were seated at a communal table after only a brief wait. A waiter immediately came to serve us coffee, and the cream and sugar were already conveniently set up at each table on beautiful wooden platters. The coffee was strong and oh-so-smooth, a fantastic break from drinking Starbucks.

The menu is very easy to navigate, left column dedicated to drinks and right column to food. “Oysters, pork, and beer” feels quite apt as the slogan since the menu features seafood and pork quite heavily as well as over 60 different beers. I also originally thought the brunch was shared plates but was informed otherwise. Since some of the dishes are small enough to be appetizers, I would suggest asking the waiter to see if you’ve ordered enough.

FAB TIP: The Saturday and Sunday menus are slightly different, so you can come back a different day for more options.

Oysters
Because their slogan is “oysters, pork, and beer,” we decided to start our brunch off with a half-dozen oysters. I absolutely love the freshness of good, raw seafood, and these oysters delivered. Of the six, I tried the Gigamoto, Sea Cow, and The Publican. The Gigamoto was a bit too salty and tangy for my taste, but the Sea Cow was very smooth and refreshing, and The Publican had this fantastic umami flavor to it. If you just want one oyster to taste, I’d definitely recommend The Publican. The oysters also came with house-made saltines, which were light, flaky, and sprinkled with sea salt.

Belgian Waffle
You know how on some waffles, there’s the part around the edges that’s very light, crispy, and just delicious? Now think of an entire waffle made of only that part – that’s what The Publican has managed to do. I can’t imagine the technical expertise involved in creating a waffle so airy and moist on the inside yet still perfectly crisp on the outside. Then add on the powdered sugar, whipped butter, and strawberry jam, and you have perfection. This isn’t what I’d call a comforting waffle (which is a different kind of good waffle). This is a technically perfect and elegant waffle. I didn’t feel weighed down by fat or sugar after eating this, and I was left with sheer appreciation for the skill and thought that went into creating this delicious masterpiece.

Chicken Liver Pate
We were feeling extra fancy schmancy after the oysters, so we decided to go for an order of the Chicken Liver Pate. It went through phases of flavor, starting out salty and sweet and trailing off with a bit of heat. The preserved apricot added some nice texture as well. The sourdough accompaniment, which was toasted with animal fat, was phenomenal.

Spoon Bread
The spoon bread, another example of The Publican’s ability to be creative with American classics, was reminiscent of corn bread. It has a slightly sweet taste to it, with an added tanginess of the vinaigrette. It was made with bacon, chicories, and ricotta salata, which gave the dish a nice crunch. This makes for the perfect combo of savory and sweet and a balance of textures. It was also topped with a sunny-side up egg for an extra yum factor.

Publican Bacon
The bacon, possibly the hidden star of the menu, was thick-cut and braised with Burton’s maple syrup. It had a sweet and smoky taste, several steps up from your old-school Oscar Mayer bacon. It’s a great side if you’re looking for something meaty, rich, and delicious.

{Experience}
Another aspect of the Publican that must be mentioned is how seamless the service was. Our water glasses never dipped below the halfway point, our plates were cleared just as we finished eating, and our waiter always seemed to know when we needed something. This was really one of the most incredible, thoughtful brunches I have ever had. And the price was reasonable, especially for a West Loop spot! I am trying to think of something to be critical of, and I can’t come up with anything beyond “less salt in the rarebit.” There are dishes of technical expertise and dishes of indulgence, so there’s something for everyone. You can bet I’ll be back to try the rest of the food!

{Location}
The Publican
West Loop || 837 W Fulton Market, Chicago, IL || P: (312) 733-9555

Price Range
$$ ($11-$36)

{Rating: 4.5 Fabs}

Have you been to brunch at The Publican? What were your favorite dishes?

Live, laugh, eat,
Senxi

Note: This meal was not complimentary. The views and opinions expressed herein are those of the writer.